I have finally found out the reason for my unrelenting passion for jam-making even though the kitchen shelves/cupboards are chock-ful of jam jars. This passion happens to exist in the genes of my family. I have heard my mother relate the story: Her grandfather, the well-renown composer Ismail Hakkı Bey was employed by the Imperial Band of Musicians. Having attracted the attention of Sultan Abdülhamit II with his voice, he was given the privilege of attending the Sultan?s Friday Prayers as the müezzin (one who recites call to prayer). Growing very fond of him, the Sultan befriended him. Now this great ancestor of mine had a zeal for jam-making. The Sultan, having discovered his talent, lost no time in demanding that noone but he make exquisite jams like rose jam, aubergine jam etc. for Him.
Having stated this, do you think that it is surprising that I follow this tradition with a burning passion?
Desserts for the Palace were cooked in a quarter of the Imperial Kitchens called Helvahane?. Jams that appear on the Ottoman table since the 15th Century, were prepared in that part of Helvahane called ?Reçelhane? and cooked in copper pots/cauldrons.
According to palace protocol, as soon as coffee was served guests were offered jam in style, i.e a variety of jams placed in crystal or glass cups and holders, along with small silver spoons and glasses of water placed on a silver tray . In our day, jam is a must-have on our morning breakfast table though not served along with coffee. Here?s my recipe from Oya?s cuisine:
Ingredients:
- 1 kg quince (4-5 whole quinces)
- 900 ml water
- 850 gm white sugar
- 1 teaspoon lemon salt
- 2 drops (crushed) Mastic
How To:
Wash the quinces ?do not peel them-, quarter them, carve out the seeds and place them in a small gauze bag, fasten firmly. In a separate bowl, put the juice of 1 lemon and water enough to cover the quinces. This is necessary to keep the fruit from darkening.
Chop the quinces into chunks slightly bigger than a dice. Place them in the pot, place the pot over fire and turn on the stove. When the quinces have slightly softened add the sugar and the seeds, bring down the heat to ?low? and let it simmer until it?s colour turns mellow.
Just before moving away from fire take the gauze bag with the seeds out, add lemon salt and crushed Mastic, give it a few more minutes, remove from heat. Keep in tightly closed jars.
Bon apetite!
